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The Ethiopian coffee ceremony is an essential part of daily life for most Ethiopians. As soon as they are born they start to become aware of its omnipresence. More than just a coffee break this ritual is an historic tradition with much religious symbolism. Once, twice and sometimes even three times a day, the senior woman in an Ethiopian household invites the family and neighbours for "buna" (coffee). This is a quality time for Ethiopians when they relax together and catch up with what's been happening.

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An Ethiopian girl grinding coffee in the traditional way

 

Adanech brewing coffee on hot charcoal


A little stool is brought for the person performing the ceremony to sit on. A low table called a "rekebot" is produced to hold the small handleless cups, "sini", a small ceremonial carpet is spread out on the floor and fresh long green grass, "goosgwaze" is sprinkled around to mark out the sacred space for the ritual. Fragrant flowers are adorn the area on special occasions. Tradition has it that you can drink one cup or three, but you cannot drink two. Indeed patience is essential to enjoy this 1-2 hour ceremony. There is no such thing as a quick cup of coffee in Ethiopia.

First the green beans must be roasted either over an open fire or on a small charcoal burner. They are placed on a "baret metad" (roasting plate) and moved around meticulously to ensure an even roast. The beans crackle, opening themselves up to release their rich aromatic essence and the roasting smells are savoured by the participants. When the beans have been roasted precisely to the right colour, they are poured onto a clay plate, "wacheff" or sometimes a straw mat called a "margegabia" and the person performing the ceremony moves around the room, inviting everyone to waft the vapours towards them with their hands.

The beans are then crushed with "mukecha" and "zenezena" (mortar and pestle) into fine grains ready to be infused in the boiling water of the "jibuna", the black clay coffee pot. Perhaps a pinch of cinnamon, cloves or cardamom will be added to produce a delightful subtle flavour but mostly it is drunk plain.

At the right boiling point, the pot is taken from the heat and placed in the "matot" (its holder) allowing the grounds to settle. "Itan" (incense - usually frankincense) is taken from the "moodai" (incense container) and is placed on the "girgira" (a little clay incense burner) containing red hot charcoal. In some areas of Ethiopia, it is believed that the smoke of the incense will carry out any bad spirits that are in the home. The frankincense evokes memories of formal religious rites and elevates the ceremony to the sacred position it holds in Ethiopian life.

"Yebuna kourse" (a snack to accompany the coffee - usually popcorn, bread or a mixture of roasted barley, peanuts and seeds known as Kolo) has been made and is served on a "mesopwerk" (a small table made of straw). A young child is summoned to stand by, ready to bring a cup of coffee to the eldest in the room and then the guests, as well as to all the others.

From a height of about one foot, the person performing the ceremony gracefully pours a thin stream of coffee into each little cup without stopping. Doing this without spilling any requires years of practice. Sugar may be added or in the countryside, salt. Holding the hot little cup requires great dexterity.

The first round of the coffee ceremony, in which the strongest coffee is served, is called "Abol". Once this round is finished, more water is added to the Jibuna and another brew is made from the same grounds. This round is called "Hueletanya". Finally, in an unhurried manner, the whole process is repeated for "Sostanya", the final round. Participants at this leisurely social event have invariably become more relaxed and comfortable. There is a great deal of laughing, joking, story-telling and gossip. Friendships are made, people bond and the human warmth that Ethiopians value highly is freely expressed. Whether sitting silently or being vociferous the participants expect to undergo a transformation of the spirit that will send them away feeling happy.

 

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Last modified: 02-Mai-2008